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When assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The honour has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” states the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small place earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary achievement.